My son, Francois, and I went to New York for an anniversary party of Per Se, the elegant restaurant of Thomas Keller that opened 20 years ago. It’s located on the fourth floor in what used to be called the Time-Warner building that overlooks Columbus Circle and a corner of Central Park. Only New York or London, I think, could have a building in which the 78th floor penthouse was sold in 2015 by a Russian Oligarch for $51 million.

When we arrived, the restaurant was already completely filled with guests who, like us, were handed a glass of champagne as we entered, and then left to walk around, greet others we knew, and taste food.

I don’t like eating that way – nibbles of random food – but Francois doesn’t feel the same way and tasted until he had used all of his prodigious store of taste buds. For me, the visit was purely evocative.

I signed a lease the other day and in six months there will be a neighborhood bakery called Bread Furst.  It will be at 4434 Connecticut Avenue, a little building next to the car wash near Albemarle Street. A blue awning is there now that reaches from the building nearly to the street and says […]